Aiguille Verte Summit! Route: Whymper Couloir .


With constant unstable weather plaguing the Alps this June, we had been looking for a window of opportunity for this climb. The 'Aiguille Verte' at 4122m/13,523ft is a temperature/condition dependent mountain, as we were planning to climb the 'Whymper Coulouir', which is steep and needs to refreeze overnight. So with a tiny weather window and a small chance of the temps being low enough, we headed up to the Couvercle Refuge, situated in the magnificent cirque on the 'Glacier Talafre'. We decided to get up at 11.30pm and set off to the Bergschrund at the start of the climb, to check out the conditions. The night was clear and the stars were shining brightly, so we had a good feeling that our refreeze had been possible:) We had been postholing though the snow on the approach, but by the time we got to the gully the conditions were looking very good. We climbed through the night, up the consistently steep 50-55 degree pitch gully, eventually connecting with the main Whymper Couloir. After a few hours of sustained effort, we reached the final summit ridge and then onwards towards the summit! It was a beautiful morning and the views were spectacular over to the Mont Blanc and the Grandes Jorasses! It was really worth the effort on this Classic route and we were very appreciative that the conditions and weather were in alignment for us....Finally the descent down was a series of rapells on the same route, finishing back at the bergschrund.


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